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Meet our route setters

Warning! Do not feed the monkeys...

Anthony 'Slimfast' Medes
  • How many years have you been climbing for? About 25 years.
  • How long have you been setting for? 15+ years.
  • What is the best route you have ever climbed? Too many to pick one. But I love climbing in Kalymnos, Greece and also in Waterval Boven in South Africa. The best multi-pitch I ever did was in Finale in Italy because a storm started to come in and it started to get… interesting.
  • What has been your scariest moment climbing? See above (in Italy).
  • What sort of setting do you prefer (routes or problems) and what style and why? Routes or problems are both good. But I like technically interesting setting with small holds and intricate sequences.
  • What is your most school boy climbing error or embarrassing moment? Probably falling on my backside demonstrating technique on a beginners course. Pretty embarrassing!

 

Rich 'Tricky' Hudson
  • How many years have you been climbing for? More than 20, off and on. 12 with conviction.
  • How long have you been setting for? About 12 years since I started setting at the Castle.
  • What is the best route you have ever climbed? Moyers Buttress E1 5b with a massive hangover and a load of rope drag. Gorilla Warfare is the best problem I've done.
  • What has been your scariest moment climbing? The moment just before decking out from 10m.
  • What sort of setting do you prefer (routes or problems) and what style and why? Boulders because I don't have to hang around, hurting my back and hauling stuff.
  • What is your most school boy climbing error or embarrassing moment? See first part of best route answer.

 

Gareth 'Gaz' Parry
  • How many years have you been climbing for? 30+ years.
  • How long have you been setting for? 15+ years.
  • What is the best route you have ever climbed? Usually the last one.
  • What has been your scariest moment climbing? At around 16 we used to take the train from Manchester to Buxton then walk down the dale for the weekend and doss in the old railway tunnels. After a hard weekend including one of my earliest E5's on sight I decided to finish the day with an E3 called Mad Dogs And English Men. Totally pumped out in the top groove and decided to sit on a poor wire, as the belayer sat back it popped. I ripped a few more bits on the way down and stopped upside down a few feet from the floor. Didn't find it too scary really, just good fun.
  • What sort of setting do you prefer (routes or problems) and what style and why? Problems i think are more fun, you can create some weird and complex moves. I prefer more complex boulders with hard to see and understand moves and tricks.
  • What is your most school boy climbing error or embarrassing moment? Plenty of times turning up to the crag with only one harness for two people, not a problem as the belayer can just make one out of the rope, the bigger problem arises when you forget to bring the rope!

 

Dave 'Blocfit' Culver

  • How many years have you been climbing for? 6 years.
  • How long have you been setting for? 3 years.
  • What is the best route you have ever climbed? Big mama 7a at Cuvier rampart in Fontaine Bleau or honeycombe 6b at high rocks.
  • What has been your scariest moment climbing? Scariest moment was deep water soloing in Majorca, I'm not a great swimmer and it was very high.
  • What sort of setting do you prefer (routes or problems) and what style and why? I'm more comfortable setting Boulder problems but am equally happy setting routes. I prefer balancy, crimpy routes with high feet and big rockovers, anything with an unusual body movement in.
  • What is your most school boy climbing error or embarrassing moment? School boy error would be jumping on a route I'd set without warming up and pulling my hamstring.

 

Alex 'Beefy' Fry
  • How many years have you been climbing for? 20+ years.
  • How long have you been setting for? 15+ years.
  • What is the best route you have ever climbed? Austrian Oak, 8b at Malham.
  • What has been your scariest moment climbing? Probably watching a mate in Majorca being belayed by someone else, breaking off a fridge-sized block and surfing down the cliff on it. The belayer also just dived out of the way in time. Or it was when I was climbing on the Piz Badile in Switzerland, roped to a mate, and there was a rock fall above us. The largest block was about the size of a telly and it just bounced over our rope.
  • What sort of setting do you prefer (routes or problems) and what style and why? I like setting both routes and problems - it's more about the wall and the holds than the type of climbing. I prefer setting steep and powerful in either case.
  • What is your most school boy climbing error or embarrassing moment? Too embarrassing to tell!

 

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